Newbi with rough Chaly (cf70)

Chief wrote:Just a thought,but if your going to shoot 2k topcoat why dont you use the correct 2k primer as well?
It'll be a darn site better than a halfords rattle can!
Even go the whole hog and etch prime the bare steel seeing you've gone to the trouble to strip it.
chief

I did speak to the paint supplier about using a 2k primer, but in their opinion very much overkill, and as I stated from my early attempts I ended up with some runs that I needed to sand down before re-painting. I never did get down to the primer!!!

Whilst I've got her all to bits again, I took a good long look at the electric bits I do have, once again trying to determine if this thing is 12 or 6 volt, and I think I have resolved the mystery.

It looks like at some point the original 70cc engine was replaced lock/stock and barrel with a C70 (step through), looks like they also swapped the loom, hence the loom was cut and hard wired etc.
Another clue was the carb, the float bowl has a tap on the side of it (like the ST and the C50/70 etc), but has been glued in the open position (if anyones got a genuine Chaly carb let me know, otherwise this ones going back in).
So it looks like its the 70cc C70 version with the 6 Volt CDI system, so good news its CDI, unforunetly its 6 Volt, but thats not the end of the world, thats another project in the future.



Today in between showers and a gale, I manged to finish rubbing down the parts for painting, and got them primed





the eagle eyed will notice the lack of rear shocks, the problem is the rear shock covers are plastic (one has split), and the chrome has long gone, so a new pair have been ordered from OOR today.

Meanwhile this arrived today



This must be the VERY LAST (NOS) Honda Chaly rear brake rod left in the world ? (its un available on every site I checked), damn lucky I found it,
BUT as per my un-answered plea for help, I desperately need to know the length of the rear brake pedeal (SOMEONE PLEASEEEEEEEE) from a Chaly and a ST before ordering the wrong part...

Stripped down the card, prior to cleaning.



All the parts ready for a bath



I'm using a Triton 2Ltr Ultrasonic tank (love it, comes with a heater and timer), distilled water and 10% carb cleaner, and 30 mins later at 30C

Colour odered (well its on route SOMEWHERE so the supplier tells me)


Strong Blue (just coz I like it)

Also I now have a copy (in word format) of the Honda CF50/CF70 Shop Manual (like workshop) if any one wants a copy let me know

AND if anyone has a real CF50/CF70 Carb they wanna sell, let me know

Makes you laugh, got the paint off flebay, and paid £10 coz they state it has to be sent via courier due to the hazardous goods act, and today it arrived in the post!!!!!!





the colour is growing on me (just as well!!!!). (you can see the luster starting to develope as the paint is already drying)

Problem with spraying at this time of year is getting it to dry, so I leave it outside for 30 mins (touch dries in 20), and then remove it to the spare bedroom in front of the radiator, dries no bother.

According to the Haynes manual the C70E engine (mine is C70E-7051969) is 12Volt with CDI and voltage regulator (not 2 wire rectifier), which makes sence as I have a CDI and a voltage regulator (sadly no markings), however if I search the net it indicates the C70E-xxxxx range as 6Volt Points, yet my engine shows no signs of being adapted from points to CDI, so now I'm confused again....

Someone suggested some of the C70 engines were both DCI and Points (ie 12v cdi and 6 volt charge), but

No sign of points in here, just a pickup coil (needed for cdi)



With 5 wires



As per circuit



Everything is saying TWELVE VOLT, TWELVE VOLT, TWELVE VOLT, but it would be nice to know first, mind you I guess I could check the resistance of the charging coils and that will give me a clue (I=E/R)

Very nice work man!!!

Concerning the ignition, it does indeed yells 12v.
BUT... there has been 1 or 2 production years where Honda decided to make a 6v CDI ignition. Around 1980.

It could be a 12v ignition which they hard wired to a 6v rectifier, so that they could still use their 6v battery and light bulbs.
just a thought...
Or they changed the coils or...

Yea, bloody mystery.

I spent some time today cutting off all the jap connectors from the loom, switches, lights etc and installing new ones (same size), with new sleaving etc. I've done this on other rebuilds
saves hours of time later when you find an intermittent problem with the electics drives you half mad. Rather than just crimp the dam things on, I always tin, crimp then solder (belt and braces),
labeled the wires and tested continuity.
At least I know it wont be the wiring if something fails.

Ahh happines is a paintjob free of runs (finally), plus a new phenomenum craters !!!! it turns out when I was spraying with my new compressor, even though I have an oil/water trap/filter in situ, it was still spraying oil, I got one of those little filters that goes into the actual spary gun (in line), and bingo 4th re-spray and its a lesson learnt.....



Next time to get the forks back in, I use AK45 grease since I read how this stuff unlike other grease actually replells water and moisture, unlike other grease that traps it in!!!



And the top end



Handle bar holders before cleaning



Was going to also buy some new bolts, but these came up nice



And head back on



Well what else would you do on a wet day?