FLYWHEEL REMOVEL HELP PLEASE

Can someone help i,m a novice to this procedure,going to replace the points and condenser due to continued electric problem,i have gained access to the flywheel,now i,m stuck how do i remove the large nut holding the flywheel as it all goes round when tyring to undo,told you i was a novice at this !! + how exactly do you use the pulley ? after looing inside towards the points the left side coil looks somewhat dodgy looks wet on the wires but when touched its dry ? what does this coil do,and could this cause the engine to fail when hot and under load ??

Hi
Several questions lets sort one at a time

To stop everything turning when you try to undo the large nut you need th stop the flywheel turning a useful tool to do this is a car oil filter removing tool, it is basically a small chain on a handle which locks tight when rotating and gets tighter when more force is applied to the centre nut.

The flywheel removing tool is in 2 parts a centre wind in course pointed screw which you remove you then wind in the outer finer threaded nut shaped part into the space vacated by the large flywheel retaining nut, then once this is in place, you wind in the centre couse threaded pointy bolt until the flywheel starts to evenly pull off of the crank.
DONT DAMAGE THE WOODRUFF KEY

The coil is one of 2 behind the flywheel and they do look wet and they will because they have been dipped in shelac during manufacture this has 2 qualities one is to protect the coil from corrosion the other is to insulate the windings from one another to prevent a Short circuit or an Open circuit.

I hope this has been of some help but its like riding a bike when you fall off its really hurts
I wrecked a crankshaft when I was younger on a Cub engine by not using the right puller and thinking that a good thumping with a hide hammer would do it "WRONGGGGGGG"

If you need more clarity "not a french red plonk" send me a private message with a contact number regards Tufty

Cheers perfect help !! couple of follow up,s the pulley i have slightly differs in that the inner screw bolt has a flat head not pointed ?? (bought from ebay) also what is the wooddriff i may damage???
cheers again Arn.
ps any pointers when soldering, never done

My puller is flat as well, works perfectly.
Whatever you do, don't put a screwdriver in your flywheel, as this will result in damaged coils.
Also, the oil filter tool with a strap instead of a chain actually works a bit better on the flywheel....
The woodruff key is the little piece of metal which is on your crank tap, needed for flywheel alignement.
It can be easily replace when damaged, but make sure you don't damage the tap! (the little space in the crank can wear out when the flywheel is too loose)
Make sure the condensor doesn't get hot whilst soldering or it will be ruined after 5 seconds...

Cheers Waynes have a good holiday !
Just one other point, ANTI CLOCKWISE TO LOOSEN THE NUT ??????
Arn.

Job done,and it seems my problem all along was the condenser !! not the carb or the ht coil etc etc only taken me pretty much all summer to sort I hope we have a indian summer to enjoy my fruits of labour
thanks for the help along the way guys cheers
Arn.

So the condensor sorted the problem arny? Great stuff, I have a new one so will pop it in when I get a min and hopefully it will be problem solved for me to.
Glad to hear it is fixed, enjoy riding.
Ben

Goodluck Ben i,m sure this will sort yours too ! as exact same issues as mine,now rode for 25miles + without any probs
checkout ma pics James has uploaded.
Arn.

Just a quick question Arny. How easy was it to change the condensor? Did you leave the stator plate on the bike when you did it or take it off? I plan on doing it this saturday and want to be well prepared. A quick run through of what you did would be great.

P.S. Love the bike

Ben it was a first for me............

1,removed gear change pedal and side cover only.
2,losened large nut holding the flywheel,using a airfilter removel tool(strap) around the flywheel and socket on the nut,becareful as mine was TIGHT and when losened the flywheel rotated clock wise and i lost some skin from 2 fingers catching the bike chain on the way down !! that hurt......
3,removed the nut,then used the pulley simple and quick,no probs... gently removed the flywheel keeping an eye on the woodriff key again no probs.
4,i noticed on the inner of the flywheel traces of light rust,which i cleaned off.
5,the points looked ok but i replaced anyway,simple enough 1 screw and i conector.
6,the condenser 3 wires soldered to 1 point.I tried to remove the old solder with my soldering gun but unable to do so as the old solder would not melt ?? after twisting the wires at point of solder they were released.
7,only 1 screw holding the condenser on,it took me more time to strip the 3 wires i wanted more wire on show so that i could wrap around the conector on the condenser in case my soldering was not up to scratch.(
Be carful though as 1 wire is only 1 strand)
8, once stripped i wrapped alll 3 wire as 1,and then put my new condenser back in,wrapped the wires around the connector and bent over the clamp on the condenser which stops the wires moving(you will see when you look at the old condenser and how it was done)
9, i was not looking forward to the next job soldering as to much heat and the condenser is useless.......
someone said 5 secounds tops and that stuck with me,and worked............
10, put back together and set up the points the old fashioned way....... worked fine great spark......
Hope this is of some help ?? GOODLUCK BEN......... if i can do it then you have no worries............