rear shocks

hi all, started to put it all back together now, ive had a mare with the sticketers, the HONDA one on the cross bar, blimey ive lost sleep over them, any way, the nuts that hold the rear shocks on, are they a standard 10mm. ive brought some nice stainless dome nuts, but they don't seem just right, ive got them on but with a bit of a battle, the parts list says they are 10mm, seems strange

No they are not the STD 10mm thread they are Metric fine .
If you've persuaded some on though you may be wise not to try to revert back !

hi, standard pitch is 1.50, do you know what the pitch is as fine can be 1.25, 1.00 or even less i think. i'll run a 1.50 dye down them i think, i looked at the parts list before i ordered the nuts, it said m10, praps it should have stated fine, though i must say the stainless dome nuts look great on,i wanted to replace as many nuts and bolts with stainless ones as possible,,i'm really pleased with the colour match of my bike, the candy blue, spent ages looking on ebay ,just the dreaded electrics now,

anyway, hows your bike coming on,did you get the stickers on ok, in the end the bloke i got them from gave me a great tip, position the sticker with the HONDA just where you want it with masking tape then peel the backing and start from the top , works great but the first time i did it, when i pulled the backing off it pulled the paint off aswell, the 7 th time it went well

Yes, can be 1.00 or 1.25mm pitch, I believe these are 1.25mm though, you would have to measure with a pitch gauge to be certain(which I can do if you need to know). I bought new original Honda ones as stainless steel ones were 17mm A.F. were as originals only 14mm.and I wanted to keep a 'standard' look where possible. I did polish them prior to fitting and the zinc finish does come up remarkably bright,(although it will dull over time as it oxidises) and I can always 'replica chrome' plate them at a later date should I choose.
I agree doing the main stickers can be daunting as mistakes can be very costly.
Good advice for any other members undertaking this would be to obtain your replacement decals prior to removing the originals. then offer them up over the old and mark and trim them accordingly and then when you come to fit them some time after you cant go wrong.(do confirm your originals are correctly fitted though, as one side on mine wasn't correct!)
I found this worked extremely well for me and took all the guess work out of re-applying them.
My scruffy old dax is now a 'little minter' with full MoT and tax and raring to go! ,just need some decent weather (and to lose a few stones, as it's somewhat slower than 18 yrs. ago when I rode it last! )
Here's a picture during assembly -

Wow! Eyecandy!

Thanks Waynus.
Proves that you can actually make a 'silk purse' out of a 'pigs ear' if you've got the time, patience, equipment , skills, and money! (or just shed loads of money)
I'll take some pictures of the finished bike and post, hopefully they might provide some inspiration to members at the beginning of their restorations.
Cheers.

Here's a couple of pics of the swinging arm to illustrate, the first after a light shotblasting to see what we're dealing with and the second after cutting out the corroded steel and replacing with fresh.
No polyester filler used to finish - only bronze welding
I tried to not replace anything on the bike unless absolutely necessary, always repair, refurbish and restore

Nice,

A true craftsman

Thanks, its nice to have the time to indulge ones self, as they say!
I did though have a good grounding in welding and fabrication as I did half an apprenticeship before being made redundant twice,before starting a job pursuing my hobby(and love) working in a motorcycle workshop at 18.
Its only now though, in retirement, that I have the time to do such things, and re-discover my passion for all things powered on twowheels.
Hope you're mending well and will be soon back up and riding.
Dave