my st70 resto thread

hi people, it would be really good if you would like to come with me on this little journey, it shouldn't take long. (famous last words!) when i got this bike the wheels weren't on it, no chain and i have sort of worked it out. i have cleaned the carb, it's all about just putting it together now. i realise i need a cotter pin for the rear hub nut.

i have taken a look at all the parts diagrams on the parts shop and i have most of it. here are the parts i have, if you want to comment on the condition of any go ahead.

http://s1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa4 ... ?start=all

here's the front hub, what do you think of that?



there's this collar on that picture in the middle, does that just stay where it is?
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another question is, on the axle rear nut mount hole, there's 4 mounting marks there, how far back do you have your wheel, is it far back enough to have the right tightness/play on the chain? i have the settings for chain play in the manual now. how many links should be in my chain so that it's not too loose? 42 teeth in the rear sprocket. i am reusing the rear sprocket, i will get a new front sprocket. what number of teeth for the front sprocket is the best one to go with that rear 42T?





judging by the manual, the rear sprocket is held on the hub by a circlip, i see a circlip on the hub, do i take that off, put the sprocket on and replace the circlip? there's a groove for the circlip.

the chain adjusters don't have the spring washer, does this matter? seen here:



also, inside the hubs, i can see grease in there, not much, should i pack this whole cavity out to the brim with grease? or is that not necessary and only the inside cavities of the bearings need packing with grease before the bearings are pressed in? if so, is castrol lm grease ok?

also i don't know what this part is for?



or this part?


_
this....


should go here:


is that right? then there's this little distance collar, now this shouldn't be on the outside of that last pic should it? it should be running on the axle on the other side of the nut and split pin that will be on the end of the axle?

it's on this diagram, 11, 34, and 23, are all in the hub and that's the bearing and the seal that should be flush to the hub? then on this axle, goes through this bearing then this collar, number 8,

http://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/ ... 9_58e3.gif

on this cmsnl diagram of the rear wheel, part number 33 on here (circlip) seems to be on the hub, is that the right place for it?


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also on the rear fork chain case

http://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/ ... 1_80d3.gif

what's number 3 for? i can't quite work that out yet.

thank you for any input you can give me. i am off to check through some manuals rest assured i am trying to solve all of this. i have figured out how to remove the filters and clean them now. getting there!

the bent metal wire part is apparently for the front bumper and it ties back the wires to the brake etc, a sort of retainer.

Lots of questions, a couple of answers:
Number 3 is a bracket to hold de brake plate in place.
Otherwise, the drum would turn instead of breaking.

You're right about the front fender bracket.

The circlip goes on the hub, there a little space for it, on the outside of the sprocket.
(You might have to push down the sprocket on its rubber cushions pretty hard to get it in place)

Make sure you always have 2 nuts on the chain tensioners.
One to get it in the right place, the other to lock down the first nut.
I suggest to get the correct plates for the bolts.

Front sprocket depends on engine etc. 15 teeth should be good.

The front hub looks pretty good.
New brake blocks, a good cleaning, maybe a new bearing (you can get these by inner/outside sizes, doesn't have to be the original ones, there are better bearings for less money)
Fit new grease (copper grease, bearing grease,...) and check everything for wear and excessive spray.
ALso check the spring and replace if necessary (or give it a good cleaning and lubrication at the least.
Check the speedo drive for wear (teeth).

Don't worry about the chain length too much.
Or you get an original, or you get an improved version, DID, Iris,...
You can shorten these to the correct length wit a special tool or with some force.
The position at the rear depends on chain length an its condition, tyre size and condition and sprockets (and again, their condition)

battery in, electrics seem fine after a bit of fettling.

good strong blue spark.

will get the clean carb back on soon and test engine.

any procedures for cleaning oil filters etc does kick starter have to come off?

also is it worth checking oil pump or is there another way to check without dismantling?

xpress wrote:any procedures for cleaning oil filters etc does kick starter have to come off?

Yes, it does.

xpress wrote:also is it worth checking oil pump or is there another way to check without dismantling?

You can easily check by removing the lower valve tappet and press down the kickstart.
If there's oil leaking from the head, the pump is working fine.

just a couple of quickie questions..

what size castle nuts do i need for the front and back axle, and are they the same sizes for st50 and st70? i have an st70 frame and 50cc engine.

I think a big thankyou to Waynus is well due !!!! dont you

my sincere thanks go out to Waynus and others that have helped me in my quest.