Winker Won't Wink

Depends on what indicators you have fitted but the chrome 'bullet' ones (part number 33400098505) use a 6V 8W bulb which could be your problem (you could be overloading the flasher relay).

What model & year is your bike, it looks like a 70's ST70 but with additonal chrome parts from a CT?
Same colour as my current one but of course yours has the advantage of being in one piece (rather than being stored in several boxes) and actually running! It looks very shiney.

Never heard of 'NOS parts and Service', I use David Silver and occasionally Monkey Bike UK or CMSNL.
Just had another load of new parts delivered this week, I really must get around to finishing welding the frame and getting it painted so I can put it back together.

LITCH wrote:Depends on what indicators you have fitted but the chrome 'bullet' ones (part number 33400098505) use a 6V 8W bulb which could be your problem (you could be overloading the flasher relay).

What model & year is your bike, it looks like a 70's ST70 but with additonal chrome parts from a CT?
Same colour as my current one but of course yours has the advantage of being in one piece (rather than being stored in several boxes) and actually running! It looks very shiney.

Never heard of 'NOS parts and Service', I use David Silver and occasionally Monkey Bike UK or CMSNL.
Just had another load of new parts delivered this week, I really must get around to finishing welding the frame and getting it painted so I can put it back together.

David Silver? I looked it up and see it's in the UK. I am in California. I was born in the UK though. Glasgow. Anyway....I'll check into the wattage thing. Maybe a good set of new blinkers in total will solve everything. I can see that too many watts will OL the relay.

Mine is 1970 year model and is DAX Export. It does have some parts on it that I do not see on any other DAX, like the chrome engine guar bars, etc.... I bought it for $1100 US from a guy a month ago.

Are you doing a complete restore? Sounds like it.

In a few days I will get another box of parts and try to fix the winkers.

Just out of curiosity: I bought points and a condenser and took off the points plate to replace them and there was a large nut there that is very hard to remove because the circular case keeps spinning. How do you get that off? I got the nut loose but the case wouldn't come off. If you have a tip, thanks.

Sorry I had no idea you were not in the UK (the internet really does make the world a smaller place!).

Yes David Silver is UK based but does ship all over the world. If he can't get a part then the chances are that it can't be found anywhere unless someone turns up a NOS item from a storeroom somewhere.

It was items such as the engine bars, rear light bracket, high front mudguard etc that made me wonder what model your bike is as they are not UK spec. Our models didn't have so much chrome on them although some of those items make there way onto UK bikes (especially the mudguards as the painted UK spec ones are quite rare in good condition).

Yes I am doing a complete rebuild using the original frame, engine, carb, forks & wheels but just about everything else is brand-new. I could have restored some of the original parts instead of buying new but secondhand parts can fetch good (sometimes silly) money so I anticipate getting some of my cash back when I sell all the old bits. I posted a photo in the 'pictures' section titled 'My 1975 ST70' but unfortunately that was after I had started to take it apart.

Can't get my head around what you mean about the points, you are not refering to the flywheel are you?

Yes I am referring to the flywheel. I can see the points in there but can't get to them to change them unless I take off the nut that holds the flywheel on. I just want to change the points and condenser.

I'll have a look here to see if I can find your bile photo. Mine says DAX Export model ST70, And yes, there are a few parts on her that don"t come on the original I suppose. I am sort of new to differentiating the models so bear with me on some of this.

What was the top speed of your bike? Mine seems to get up to about 50 and tops out although with a tune up and carb adjustment or rebuild I imagine it will go quite a bit more.

The flywheel needs to be removed but it is an easy enough job however you will need a flywheel puller (very cheap to buy) as it is on a tapered shaft c/w woodruff key (make sure you don't loose it).
With the nut undone and the correct puller you will have the flywheel off in a couple of minutes.

LITCH wrote:The flywheel needs to be removed but it is an easy enough job however you will need a flywheel puller (very cheap to buy) as it is on a tapered shaft c/w woodruff key (make sure you don't loose it).
With the nut undone and the correct puller you will have the flywheel off in a couple of minutes.

Awesome, that's the info I needed. I'll buy one right away. I can't wait to see how she runs with a tune up. Right now I can tell she is not hitting top speed. Anyway. thanks for all the help. If I can ever be of any help to you just ask, bla bla bla.... Thanks again. I'm sure I'll see you round here anyway.

Indicator lamps are rated at 6v 8w, if your having trouble with standard lamps why not think about converting to LED.
There are lots on the market & most of them do not require a seperate driver these days, so they are pretty much a retro fit.
I would think a std LED lamp would kick out about 1 - 2w as opposed to the standard 8w, and the more watts you can save the less work the battery will have to do, hence slightly brighter lights (I think)
Hope this helps

Phil H wrote:Indicator lamps are rated at 6v 8w, if your having trouble with standard lamps why not think about converting to LED.
There are lots on the market & most of them do not require a seperate driver these days, so they are pretty much a retro fit.
I would think a std LED lamp would kick out about 1 - 2w as opposed to the standard 8w, and the more watts you can save the less work the battery will have to do, hence slightly brighter lights (I think)
Hope this helps

That's an idea to consider seriously for me. I'll do a little research. Practically the wattage savings would go a long way to everything working optimally I guess. Thanks for the input. I'll repost what I find.

That's what I am going to fit to mine.
I am going to fit the Honda lamp units (like the ones that MBUK list in the ST70 section of their on-line store but from DS where they are considerably cheaper) and fit LED replacement bulbs with an electronic flasher relay.

You have to fit a different relay as the electro-mechanical one will not sense any load and will flash too fast unless you fit ballast resistors in which case you have lost the power saving. The main thing is to ensure the LED replacement isn't too bright and just shines almost white through the lense, this is where many replacements don't work properly whereas if you use an orange LED it should be ok.
At least that is how it works on 12V systems where you are replacing 21W bulbs, with 6V 8W bulbs I can only guess it will be exactly the same.

LITCH wrote:That's what I am going to fit to mine.
I am going to fit the Honda lamp units (like the ones that MBUK list in the ST70 section of their on-line store but from DS where they are considerably cheaper) and fit LED replacement bulbs with an electronic flasher relay.

You have to fit a different relay as the electro-mechanical one will not sense any load and will flash too fast unless you fit ballast resistors in which case you have lost the power saving. The main thing is to ensure the LED replacement isn't too bright and just shines almost white through the lense, this is where many replacements don't work properly whereas if you use an orange LED it should be ok.
At least that is how it works on 12V systems where you are replacing 21W bulbs, with 6V 8W bulbs I can only guess it will be exactly the same.

Cool, let me know how they work out and I may do that as well. By the way this is where I have been buying my parts. http://www.hondaminitrail.com/ct70.html (pricing seems to be alright?).

The bikes would look and work so good if the lights and blinkers were upgraded to bright and heavy duty (trail worthy) That's all I want really. The rest of the bike is fine.

Incidentally - Anyone know why my horn is still sounding like a sick and weak frog even after a brand new battery and brand new horn? I heard there is a screw somewhere on the horn to tune the sound?