waltergallons ST70

Steve has sent me the following picture to post:



Steve - I bought a new fuel tank for mine which was a genuine Honda part. I bought it from David Silver Spares but don't remember how much it cost. I can remember the difficulty I had fitting it after getting my frame powder coated though!

Is the plastic CT tank a direct replacement, I have been thinking of getting one but as it is not something I was going to do in the immediate future I hadn't yet asked if anyone else had done it?

My existing tank is fine and just needs a re-paint on the outside aand treating with resin to cover the rust on the inside, this is cheaper than replacing what is otherwise a sound unit it but I have always preferred the idea of a plastic one.

Bit of a disapointment today. Put the new tank in. Connected fuel pipes up and air cleaner.Bolted the old exhaust back on. Started the engine up and it sounds like a tractor. Something is clacking away inside the engine !

I took a chance just slapping an engine together using the bits that I had. The bottom half of the engine I believe is OK, as I couldn't feel any movement in the mains / big end bearings. I reckon it's the top half of the engine. Trouble is, it's years since I heard the engine run and I've forgotten what it sounded like and what was wrong with it. The present top half was from my old engine.

I think I need to get a new camchain, valves, seals, & valve springs. See what it sounds like then.

Summer will be over by the time I get it on the road, and it's draining my wallet !

Adios......Steve. (ps.......thanks for posting the pictures James)

I am really keen to hear my own ST70 running as I have treated it to a complete rebuild including rebore & piston, complete camchain assembly, new clutch, high-flow oil-pump, ground-in valves, new ignition system etc so I am hoping it is quiet & smooth but only time will tell. Crank was fine when checked as were all the other oily parts, if anything showed even the slightest sign of wear it was replaced.

The ST50 Dax I have aquired for my father and am in the process of doing a few little jobs on runs like a sewing machine and can easily be started by hand with just a touch of the kick-starter. It is so quiet that when on tickover, if you stand more than a few feet away it is difficult to tell it is running.

LITCH wrote:Is the plastic CT tank a direct replacement, I have been thinking of getting one but as it is not something I was going to do in the immediate future I hadn't yet asked if anyone else had done it?

Yes it is.
You do require the tank plate (not 100% sure if this is different!) and cap for the platsic tank as well.

I'd love to have one, but they are very expensive here.

Don't think they are available new any more (would have to do some more checking) but there are plenty of secondhand ones of varying levels of condition in the States. Prices are ok but as usual it is the postage which can add a significant amount, possibly as much again as the tank itself cost.

True...
They were only used in the American CT and Mighty Dax versions.
(70cc and 90cc)
That's the reason why a used plastic CT tank costs easily over 100€ here.
About 4x as much as when you'd buy it in the states.
The cap, rubbers and plate can still be bought new (CMSNL for example)

More pictures from Steve:

Thanks to James for posting the pictures............

Put the new seat that I got from Litch on the bike to see what it looks like.... Fits fine....Posh new seat !.. Rough & ready body!

Took the top of the engine off and ordered some parts to build up a fresh cylinder head. I had an empty cylinder head that I bought years ago on ebay. I splashed out and got all the internal bits, valves, springs,seats & seals etc etc and the valve spring compressor. Going to leave the piston / bore for now as I think it's ok.

Hope this cures the rattly engine noise, because I'm running out of dosh !

I'll let you know how it sounds once it's done.

Steve.

Hit a problem at the first hurdle !

Had a problem getting the new valve guides into the empty head. I put the cylinder head in the oven for about 15 minutes after setting it to 200 degrees C.

Offered the exhaust valve guide up to the hole and started to tap it in with a small socket over it to protect it. Used a socket extention piece on the socket and begin to try to tap it in. It went in about a centimetre (but not very easily) and then it refused to go any further, so I wacked harder ! My heart sank as I saw the top hat part of the valve guide crumble away. It appears to be made of very brittle metal.

Wonder if I could use the valve sring compressor tool to squeeze it in somehow ? Was the head hot enough ?
Anyway just ordered another guide which I could have done without. Has anyone had experience of doing this, or got any tips ?

Thanks.............. Steve